culled from:.womansday.com
Even the most well-trained pet will have an occasional accident. The good news is, “most stains can be prevented if you act fast,” says Larry Cooper, technical director of the Professional Carpet & Upholstery Cleaners Association. “Getting to it sooner rather than later is key.”
If It’s Still Wet…
1. Blot it up. “Get up as much as possible so it doesn’t begin to spread into the carpet backing and padding,” says Cooper. Scrape up any solids with a blunt-edged object like a spoon. Then place a thick layer of paper towels (white only, so the print doesn’t bleed) or an old towel on top of the area. Press or stand on the towels to help absorb the liquid.
2. Resist the urge to scrub. “Carpet fibers are twisted together, and vigorous rubbing causes them to come apart,” says Cooper. Instead, continue blotting until the area seems dry, then weigh down the towels with a phone book overnight to wick up any remaining fluid. If a spot remains once the area dries, try the steps below.
If It’s Dry…
1. Dampen the area lightly. Wet the spot with plain water using a sprayer bottle, towel or handheld spotting machine (similar to a wet vac machine). “Avoid flooding the area, which can cause the stain to penetrate the carpet,” says Jim Pemberton, a spokesman for the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification. “You want to mist the spot, not drown it.”
2. Extract the water. Using the machine or paper towels, soak up the water; repeat the process of misting and extracting until the spot is gone. “In most cases, plain water will do the job,” says Pemberton.
3. Take it to the next level. If there’s an odor or the spot doesn’t come up, try a pet enzyme cleaner, found at pet, grocery and home improvement stores. “Don’t grab just any cleanser in your house,” says Pemberton. “Products such as disinfectants, hard-surface cleaners, detergents and powdered deodorizers can bleach the carpet or leave a residue that attracts even more soil over time.” Also avoid using ammonia or homemade cleaners, which may get rid of the odor—but could actually attract your pet for a repeat performance.
4. Know when to call a pro. Since vomit may contain stomach acids, food dyes and bile, it’s particularly difficult to remove. Give it a go, but if you can’t get it out, call a professional for help. Go to certifiedcleaners.org for a pro near you.
1. Brush your pet. “Comb or brush to remove excess fur,” says Bernadine D. Cruz, DVM, of Laguna Hills Animal Hospital in Laguna Woods, California. Ideally, long-haired pets should be brushed daily; all others should be brushed weekly. Small pets like guinea pigs and rabbits can also be brushed to reduce shedding.
2.Keep your pet’s coat healthy. “Good nutrition helps your pet’s skin and coat remain healthy so he’ll scratch less and shed less,” says Dr. Cruz. Nutritional supplements may also help; ask your vet for recommendations.
3. Vacuum floors and furniture regularly Carpet rakes, which run about $10 at home improvement or carpet stores, help lift pet hair that a vacuum might miss. Sticky rollers do a good job of removing fur from upholstery, and they’re less work than upholstery brushes.
If you’ve ever had fleas in your home, you know it’s a real battle. A flea can live inside your home for up to a year. If your pet has them, vacuum furniture and floors, getting underneath everything; discard the vacuum bag. Afterward, set off insecticidal room foggers, following instructions carefully. You (and your pet) will need to leave for a few hours while the insecticide kills adult fleas, eggs and larvae.
Since one of the life stages of the flea is protected by a hard covering, it’s less susceptible to foggers. That means you’ll need to repeat the entire process two weeks later to ensure you get every life stage. To prevent future problems, “protect your animal with topical or oral products. They’re effective because they disrupt the flea’s reproductive and neurological systems,” says Dr. Cruz. Skip homemade remedies, such as garlic collars or sprays; they simply don’t work.
1. Get a blacklight. Caught a whiff of something but don’t know where it’s coming from? Get an inexpensive handheld black light (around $20 at home improvement stores). When you wave it over the carpet, the spot will light up.
2. Primp your pet's bed. You change your own sheets often, so what about your pet’s sleeping area? Buy a pet bed with a washable cover and launder it frequently.
3. Clean your pet's hair. Ask your vet for shampoo recommendations (some may work better than others for your animal), and get a checkup to ensure your pet doesn’t have a skin or other health condition that’s causing an odor.
To keep cages clean for pets such as hamsters, reptiles or birds, you don’t need special products—but you do need to clean regularly to prevent smells and to keep the animals from inhaling toxic fumes from their urine. “Cages should never have an odor,” says Doug Coward, DVM, of the Animal & Bird Clinic of Mission Viejo, California. “If they do, you’re not cleaning often or well enough.” Do it the right way:
Pocket Pets
Spot-clean the cages of guinea pigs, hamsters and other rodents by removing droppings, wet or soiled bedding, and uneaten food daily (check for hidden stashes of food in the corners of cages). A litter scoop or dustpan and whisk broom works well—just don’t use them elsewhere in your house.
Scrub down the entire cage and replace all bedding at least once a week. “At our clinic, we use 1 part bleach to 30 parts water to kill bacteria and viruses,” says Dr. Coward. “Wear gloves and sponge the solution on surfaces, then rinse with plain water and dry.” Use aspen or hardwood shavings for bedding, and avoid cedar or pine, which release fumes that can be dangerous to your pets.
Reptiles and Amphibians
Clean their cages every few days when they relieve themselves. Since these droppings can pass disease-causing salmonella to you, wear disposable gloves and try to wash the cage, dishes and toys outdoors; if you use the sink or bathtub, use a disinfectant to clean these surfaces before people use them. Use the bleach cleaning solution as above, then rinse and dry thoroughly.
Birds
You’ve got to stay on top of things. “Birds relieve themselves about every 20 minutes, so their cages need cleaning twice a day to prevent odors,” says Dr. Coward. “Cleaning also protects your bird’s lungs, which are very sensitive to fumes of any kind, even from a buildup of its own waste.” Remove and wash the cage tray, bowls, perches, toys and area around the cage with the bleach solution described above. Rinse and dry well.
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