Wednesday, 7 January 2015



culled from:http://www.menshealth.co.uk


Bad fitting suit





V-shape

The problem
Broad shoulders and narrow hips are great for the beach. But designers assume wide necks are paired with equally thick waists. Your clothes hide rather than following your torso.
Throw out
Anything unfitted. Billowing shirt fabric undoes all those hours in the gym by making you look boxy. “Never wear short jackets,” advises Angela Barnard, owner of My London Stylist. Bombers and aviators square your upper-half and knock you out of proportion. It’s also time to bin anything double breasted.
Pick up
Slim-fit shirts will emphasise your physique. If bespoke is too pricey, get your tailor to pinch them in. With jumpers and tees, try to echo your body shape, says Barnard: “V-necks will draw the eye down rather than across.” Although that’s not an excuse for deep Vs. A lighter lower half will help balance broader shoulders, Barnard adds. If all those squats are putting your chinos’ seams at risk, try London label Spoke, whose athletic cuts have roomier thighs.

Beer belly

The problem
If you’re carrying bulk, you’re probably looking to hide it. “Buying big doesn’t cover any sins, though,” says stylist Mikey Dale. “You just end up looking more voluminous.”
Throw out
Everything that draws attention to your gut; think bold prints, patterns; and avoid anything with horizontal stripes, says Levi Young, director of men's online personal shopping service Enclothed. If Comic Book guy would wear it, you shouldn’t. Avoid accessories that draw the eye across you, says Barnard. If you have to wear a belt then go for a block colour the same shade as your trousers.
Pick up
Swap sportswear for smarts. “Try a one- or two-button suit,” says Dale. The long V will make you seem thinner. Barnard recommends pairing it with a darker waistcoat: “It gives the impression of a slimmer middle.” Keep your shirt a single colour and use a bold pocket square to draw the eye away from your belly. Buttoning your jacket will also help hide anything you’re not proud of.

Beanpole

The problem
A slender silhouette means clothes hang off you. Suiting especially can swallow you up. Again, you might be tempted to steer big to create the illusion of size. “You just look like you’re wasting away,” says Dale.
Throw out
Anything oversized. Billowing shirts and jackets look like you’ve nicked your dad’s wardrobe. Also avoid anything that emphasises slimness; vertical stripes, skinny ties, pointy shoes. Make sure your trouser cuffs hits your shoe with a bit of fabric to spare. A gap makes you look like a teenager who’s just had a growth spurt.
Pick up
“Paler colours add a bit of bulk to the body,” says Barnard. “They disguise a narrow frame.” Double-breasted jackets will create the shape you don’t have, says Dale. Alternatively, embrace your slimness. You’re built like a model, so opt for fashion-focused brands like Saint Laurent and the Kooples if you’ve got the money, or Topman and Uniqlo’s skinny fits if you’re on more of a budget. And embrace collars. "Polo shirts are far better than T-shirts at creating the illusion of broader shoulders," says Young.

Compact

The problem
Anything off-the-rack overshoots your arms, and your cuffs rumple on your shoes. The resulting “first day at school” look isn’t a strong one.
Throw out
“Avoid horizontal stripes,” warns Barnard. “They only make you look shorter.” The same applies to jackets that cover your glutes. Either throw anything you need to roll the cuffs up on in the bin, or take it to a tailor.
Pick up
Vertical stripes give the illusion of height. “They lengthen the body,” says Barnard. Ensure suits are perfectly fitted and flash some shirt cuff and sock to make your arms and legs look longer. Keep lapels slim – a peak will help elongate your body – and match it to your tie. “The dimensions of your clothes, from the fit of your jacket and trousers to the width of your tie and lapel should always match,” says Dale.

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