culled from:theguardian.com
1. Really brown your meat
Click here for Felicity Cloake's perfect beef stew recipe
When a recipe asks you to start by browning the meat, really
go for it – it's not the change of colour that's important here, but
the flavours it brings with it. Searing meat over a high heat will
caramelise the outside, adding an injection of savoury, umami goodness
to the finished dish; if you just push it round a warm pan, it'll end up
tasting as beige as it looks. Make sure you don't overcrowd the pan
either; if the meat starts to steam in its own juices, it will never
brown.
2. Softening onions takes time (although not five hours)
Click here for Felicity Cloake's perfect french onion soup recipe
The second step in many recipes is softening the onions,
perhaps along with diced carrots, celery or tomatoes depending on what
you're cooking. Be aware that many chefs lie about how long this should
take – it will not do to fry it for 1-2 minutes, James Martin. Thomas
Keller's five hours might be excessive, but you should count on spending
20-30 minutes on this stage for perfect results. (Theo Randall recently
told me off for not paying sufficient attention to my soffritto in a
ragu competition. I learned my lesson the hard way.)
3. Chicken is almost always the best stock
Click here for Felicity Cloake's perfect cacciatora recipe
Unless you're cooking for vegetarians, chicken stock is
almost always the best option – it's my first choice for everything from
tomato soup to osso buco. Most commercial vegetable stocks taste
powerfully of dried herbs, which isn't always a welcome addition to your
carefully balanced dish, and beef and fish stocks need strong flavours
to balance them. Savoury chicken blends far more harmoniously into the
background.
4. Cherish the potato skin
Click here for Felicity Cloake's perfect cullen skink recipe
The skin is where most of the flavour is. I don't bother
peeling spuds destined for salad, hash browns or cullen skink and peel
them after cooking when making gnocchi – hell, I even parboil roast
potatoes along with their peelings. It sounds ridiculous, but it really
makes a difference.
5. No one likes soggy bottoms
Click here for Felicity Cloake's perfect quiche lorraine
Any tart, quiche or pie recipe that doesn't blind bake the
pastry base before adding the filling is wrong. Only perverts like soggy
bottoms.
6. Pick your meat carefully for slow cooking
Click here for Felicity Cloake's perfect osso buco recipe
Those plastic boxes of chuck or stewing steak in the
supermarket are rarely the best choice for slow cooking. Seek out shin
or oxtail instead. The same goes for chicken thighs over breasts, lamb
neck or shoulder over leg, pig cheek over pork loin – they may take
longer to source and prepare, but they're well worth it.
7. Vanilla is not the only sweet spice
Click here for Felicity Cloake's perfect victoria sponge recipe
It's often included by default in baking recipes, and, much
as I love it, it's just not necessary in a victoria sandwich or a
tiramisu. Let the other ingredients speak for themselves – or ring the
changes with nutmeg, cinnamon or ginger instead.
8. White sugar is boring
Click here for Felicity Cloake's perfect gingerbread recipe
Golden caster or light muscovado will give your chocolate
chip cookies, gingerbread men and banana bread a far more complex,
interesting flavour. White sugar is, however, useful when making
caramel, as the change in colour makes the process easier to judge.
9. Don't worry about oven temperatures
Click here for Felicity Cloake's perfect tartiflette recipe
The temperature fluctuates in all ovens throughout the
cooking cycle, so the dial is really just a guide. It really makes more
sense to think in old-fashioned terms – low, moderate and hot – and use
your senses instead: if food looks and smells done, it probably is. If
you want further reassurance, a food thermometer will give you a far
straighter answer than the thermostat in your oven.
10. Do worry about serving temperatures
Click here for Felicity Cloake's perfect moussaka recipe
Egg and dairy-based dishes such as frittata, rice puddings
and custards taste far better warm than "piping hot". In fact, with the
honourable exception of chips, most things do, so don't worry next time
you're running late and the moussaka has been sitting around for half an
hour – it's how they prefer it in Greece.
0 comments:
Post a Comment